The Boxy Top – Simply Sewing issue 45

A22C51A7-AF48-4D1A-950E-C8D21EBA096BThis pattern came with issue 45 of Simply Sewing Magazine – July 2018. The pattern is in an envelope and the instructions are in the magazine itself.

C66BEFCA-F29F-408D-A834-0ED727E86EF5The pattern is taken from Print Pattern Sew, a new book by Jen Hewett. The instructions also detail how to block print your own fabric, and a template for the print appears on the pattern sheet.

6EE9B116-4D6C-4EA6-AE1D-877A3149DC4CThe top is a lovely boxy shape, with facings at the neck. I added 4 rows of stitching to the neckline and three to the sleeves for a bit of subtle detail.

739F25C2-326F-4131-A78B-24AD305BF44FThe top is designed to have a loose silhouette and it does come up rather large. My measurements fell into the XL size, but having measured the patterns pieces (couldn’t find actual garment measurements) I made the size M and extended the hems to the XL length in the body.

DAFDB346-CA14-44EC-B91D-2EB09D16D113The fabric is a lovely cotton voile from Seasalt, I only used a metre and it was a fab bargain in their sale. The perfect top for our current heatwave 😺✂️✂️

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New Look 6517 – cropped trousers and vest top

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Having seen some lovely versions of these trousers on Instagram I decided to give the pattern a try after buying 3 metres of this lovely cotton crepe in the Seasalt sale. It’s a lovely fabric to sew, and as I had plenty of fabric left I decided to make a vest top too.

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I’m 5’4” so cut out view E to make them full length, but after trying them on decided to remove 10cm to wear them cropped.

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The top has darts and the sides are left open at the bottom. I cut out view B but felt it swamped the trousers so took 10cm from the length. I also added 5cm to the side seams as I wear my trousers below my waist line and wanted to keep the opening below the trouser band. The bias binding was in my stash and is a nice contrast.

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Not quite a faux jumpsuit as I won’t tuck the top in 😺

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I will be making more of these comfy trousers. They fit straight out of the packet as they are quite a loose fit, really like the flat front and pockets  😺✂️✂️

Sew Over It Silk Cami

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We are in the middle of a heatwave, and this is the perfect top to wear. The fabric is a lovely cotton voile from Seasalt. It does crumple but it’s 100% cotton so to be expected.

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The pattern runs slightly downhill on this fabric, I spend quite a bit of time getting annoyed that the flowers wouldn’t align before I got out my large ruler and realised (for once) that it wasn’t me but the fabric 🙄

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This pattern was a freebie with issue 43 of Simply Sewing. The envelope states ‘stock up on luxurious silks, floaty crepes and breezy cotton lawns for Sew Over It’s chic and simple top, made with french seams and facings for a neat finish’

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As you can see, I didn’t do french seams but overlocked instead as this isn’t a silky fabric. I also added top stitching to the neck and armholes and stitched in the ditch for the full facing length to the side seams under the arms to hold the facing down.

The only slight change I made was to raise the armholes by taking an additional 1.5cm when I joined the shoulder straps. The pics above are after the adjustment.

Super easy, and with great instructions that have clear photos for each step 😺✂️✂️

 

 

 

The Makers Atelier Beach Kaftan

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This pattern has two front options, I chose the open style as I think it will be more versatile.

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Both views use encased elastic to gather under the bust and centre back. I added iron on interfacing to each end of the elastic casing to strengthen the fabric where the elastic is sewn in place.

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I used a 2.5 x .8 zig zag to hold the elastic which is cut to 10cm lengths.

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The fabric is a lovely lightweight cotton, I used lace for the ties to ensure they didn’t pull the front out of shape when worn untied.

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I shortened the sleeves to three quarter length by removing from the cuff edge rather than the suggested alteration line which makes the sleeve cuff narrower.

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The bobble trim was added using my usual foot and a 1.5 x 2.5 zig zag to keep it flat. To the fabric. I used a pin to move the bobbles away from the foot as I sewed 😺

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This is a nice pattern, but at £22.50 it’s rather pricy for such a simple garment. 😺✂️✂️

 

Style Arc Dee Knit Top

306F926E-979E-44C2-B2AB-A05DF39FC1E2Style Arc describe this top as ‘an easy to wear wardrobe builder, a great basic with ‘a twist’. Suitable for any season, make it with a short or long sleeve’.

B80050C8-1D63-459B-A412-0704B13CEC03The front is cut flat, creating the long ‘tails’ that create the cute twist.

5B95EEEE-CDF1-454B-8C83-DF87D359F90CThe openings for the twist and the front hem is finished first

87D159CC-4DD6-4DD0-8AFB-BC20AB8CB400And then the first section curls up leaving an opening to thread through the second side. Super easy 😺 and the diagram is very clear

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The change in direction of the tails accentuates the twist detail in a directional print.

BDBEB39F-6A39-4857-B610-233E9041E412I left part of the bottom hem unfinished and overlocked the back piece, this made the final hemming of the back of the top quick and neat.

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This lovely peacock viscose mix jersey was from John Lewis. The pattern suggests ‘jersey, slinky or any knit that is not too thick’ as a heavy fabric would bunch at the twist

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😺✂️✂️

Sew Over It Ella Blouse

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This blouse is deceptively simple, and was a really enjoyable make with enough details to engage. The pattern is currently only available as a PDF.

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The back is shaped with darts, which tucks the blouse into the body. This fabric is a lovely lightweight lawn by Lady McElroy. The pattern asked for 2m but I cut this out of 1.5m by cutting one tie from the width of the fabric, and the second from the length along the selvage edge.

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The back has a separate facing, and the fronts are folded over and held in place by the shoulder seams.

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The fronts pleat into the ties and the lower pleat is held in place by the hem which gives a really neat finish.

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My only minor issue is one that other makers have highlighted, this top is rather short!

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This top needs to be worn over a high waisted bottom half – you can see my back peaking above one of the ties in this picture. It would be lovely worn over a dress as a cover up or with a camisole underneath if you don’t like the slightly cropped fit (I’m 5’4”).

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I love this top, the fabric is so soft and the non directional print meant no pattern matching. Lady McElroy fabrics really are a joy to work with.

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😺✂️✂️

 

 

Burda 113 from magazine 5/2018

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I have seen so many lovely makes on Instagram from Burda Style magazines, but non really screamed ‘make me’ until I found this pattern in the May edition.

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I love stripes, and I immediately saw it in a lovely ocre and navy loop backed jersey I had in my stash, bought from Guthrie and Ghani.

I almost faltered when I opened up the pattern sheets, but once sussed it was easy to find the pieces I needed. The sleeve and neck bands were cut to given measurements. As usual, I didn’t have the recommended fabric length! So Tetris ensued as I only had a metre. I omitted the hem band as I only had scraps left after cutting out the vital pieces.

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I wanted the joins to be accentuated by the stripes, and as the pieces are all cut single thickness this was relatively straight forward. The back and sleeve bands are folded double so the neck retains it’s stand up shape easily.

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The back is mostly horizontal stripes, but the sleeves add contrast.

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I pinned every stripe where they matched and am chuffed with the result 😺

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I constructed with my usual 1.5 width and 2.5 length stitch on my machine, before overlocking and to stitching with a 2.5×2.5 zig zag. I used a a straight stitch to attach the sleeve cuffs, pulling slightly as I sewed to provide stretch. I left this seam and pressed it open with raw edges to reduce bulk. I also hand stitched the seams joins together.

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Really happy with this make 😺✂️✂️